The Down Range Forum
Member Section => Building America's Rifle => Topic started by: tombogan03884 on August 13, 2020, 02:15:26 PM
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Besides reducing muzzle climb, what's the point, and what criteria do you consider ?
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Felt recoil is the reason for muzzlebreaks. That, and they are louder, if your the kind of shooter that also likes motorcycles with no mufflers, and semis with 8" stacks and a Jake.
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So basically for .308 or lower go with the one that looks coolest, or launches grenades.
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Tom... I've been using some form of muzzle brake (compensator) since 1995 when I started shooting 3 gun seriously... the intent is to limit scope shake not to reduce recoil per se...if you are trying to shoot a target as quickly as possible with multiple shots, even my .22lr had a brake ( I don't use one for steel challenge as you shoot only one target at a time) it is nice to have the scope not move off target a 415m and see the round impact... dot movement is extremely noticeable when shooting some form of a red dot scope or illuminated chevron as is my TA31F
I use a Miculek style comp with the rear wiper opened up to minor thread diameter as I thread the boss area to attach the comp without a jam nut... I clock with shims (spark plug gaskets when available) to about 1:00 for the 5.56.... the AR9 has the comp clocked almost to 3;00... this is in addition to the use of a hydraulic buffer...
even using minimum power factor 9mm loads you want every advantage... I'm old and slow, still a game player 8)
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If you shoot prone, then the proper brake will direct blast away from the ground, thus keeping explosion of dirt to a minimum. To an extent you can also disburse flash and direct noise to aid in reducing the sights and sounds of your firing position. Obviously a silencer would be better.
In my house gun, I do just the opposite. I try to direct all blast and sounds forward, towards anyone attacking. Shock and awe, I call it.
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If you shoot prone, then the proper brake will direct blast away from the ground, thus keeping explosion of dirt to a minimum. To an extent you can also disburse flash and direct noise to aid in reducing the sights and sounds of your firing position. Obviously a silencer would be better.
In my house gun, I do just the opposite. I try to direct all blast and sounds forward, towards anyone attacking. Shock and awe, I call it.
Awww, I'm SHOCKED ! Shocked I say. ;D
I knew about the kicked up dust. That was why in WW I the French ditched that ridiculous flash hider on their St Etienne Machine guns. completely hid the muzzle flash, but kicked up a dust cloud that did even more to reveal the position and kicked up a cloud the gunner couldn't see through.
As for the gamer stuff, it's not an issue .
I don't expect to get more than one shot on any single target.
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A muzzle brake, and I'm so glad you you didn't spell it b-r-e-a-k, reduces recoil. Many of them spew gas in all directions radially. A compensator reduces muzzle climb, usually by having ports facing straight up, diagonally up to the left and right, or in all three directions. Think of a ported barrel and it's similar in concept. A flash suppressor does what the name implies. Many muzzle devices function as 2 out 3 things, like when they closed the bottom of the birdcage on the A1 flash suppressor and it became the A2 compensator for whatever good it did. And sometimes you can find one device that functions as all three, muzzle brake, compensator, and flash hider. The old Fabian Brothers DTA Mil-Brake on my 20" AR barrel does it all. My 16" barrel has a slip-over fake suppressor on it that makes it look like a 10" barrel and has nothing added to the muzzle at all but I have an A2 birdcage for it. I want to keep the length short but flash suppression effective enough to shoot at night without impairing my night vision. You never know when some mangy varmint might need to be shot.
I don't have that upper on a lower now and I haven't shot a 16" AR without a flash suppressor at night. But a shot right in front of me with my dad's 18 1/2" Mini-14 temporarily blinded me. When I could see again I was seeing spots for awhile after that. That was after I shot my AR with the DTA Mil-Brake on the 16" barrel with a round from the same box. I think maybe there was a flash but dimmer than a firefly in the distance. I can't remember if it was next to nothing, or nothing at all. The majority of rifle and pistol muzzle brakes I've seen have small ports straight to the sides, plus a big port or ports on top, technically making them more of a compensator than a muzzle brake. But they can call it whatever they want as long as they don't call it a muzzle break. If it's going to break my muzzle I don't want anything to do with it. And if they're too stupid to know the difference between brake and break, I don't have much faith in their ability to design, test, and prove the effectiveness of their "break".
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sometimes it's just needed to comply
(https://i.postimg.cc/Vv4JgCh2/Herrett-II.jpg)
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nice. Tell us all about it!
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As I am getting back into shooting sports, after our move and almost six year lay off, I am looking at finishing some upgrades. Muzzle brakes on my ARs and a magazine extension on my shotgun are two items on my list. I also want to upgrade magazines for my open gun. Guess what. The Nanny State if illinois says I can't do any of these projects.
Welcome to free amerika.
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Leave. Enjoy life. You hate the city anyway....right.
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Only a matter of time. Haven't decided on a post-retirement location yet, but it will come.
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1) Gun Friendly
2) Remote yet not more than an hour or so from doctors & a big box shopping store.
3) Low taxes
4) Pleasant overall environment
5) Inexpensive land/housing
Sounds like the Arkansas to me.
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The Milspin Cujo Muzzle Device looks okay if you want a muzzle brake/flash hider combo. But I think it's 1/8" too large in diameter to attach a bayonet over it. Plus being an open-ended flash hider is a deal-breaker for lots of people. If you're running through the woods/jungle/wherever, vegetation and whatnot can jam in between the prongs. That's one of the reasons the U.S. military switched to the A1 birdcage flash hider. The other reason was grunts using them to break the bands on cases of C Rations and bending the barrels. At least that's what lore says.
https://milspin.com/collections/ar-15-parts/products/milspin-cujo-muzzle-device
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XJGsV3F094w
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sorry for the delay in response
That was a 10" factory barrel threaded and pinned with a 7" vented extension.
It's chambered in 30 Herrett, one of my favorite plinking calibers, and attached to comply with ATF mandates for a minimum of 16" barrel length for use with buttstock.
The furniture shown is a fancy forearm that is specifically built for the contours of this barrel and it's permanently mated extension.
It was shaped from a block of spalted sycamore. (nice figure)
The buttstock was provided to me by a shooter in Texas that evidently was left-handed and my initial plan was to reshape for right-hand use.
It doesn't really preclude the use of a right-hander and I haven't yet been motivated to gamble it's design with my skill level.
It just looks real nice and has enough substance to make this rig nearly recoiless.
I don't know if it's by High Plains or Boyd's.
I don't stay with one chamber's design for long as I'm always intrigued by the next best bullet that I run across!
In the past year (since my initial post) I've probably been through about a half a dozen cartridge designs and my latest is this one.
It's a very unique barrel, probably manufactured by SSK or Bullberry in the early days of the Encore's design, it's a 26" stainless chambered in a 405 Winchester wildcat.
It accomodates brass of 303 British or 30-40 Krag's length (2.314") expanded to a straightwall and prefers a cast bullet of .412"
It shoots like the ringing of a bell and is as reliable and consistant as any barrel I own.
Coincidentally, it is shown wearing the same optic as it's predecessor while neither has the compact mounted presently.
It does wear a nice walnut buttstock that I shaped with a blonde Boxwood buttplate.
(https://i.postimg.cc/52NybDF1/405-Win-Special-2.jpg)
Up to this point I have largely been using 300 gr. JSP bullets but am interested in finding a mold for a .412" bullet between 265 gr. and 300 gr.
(https://i.postimg.cc/BnczSQjV/bullet-need.jpg)
I could tolerate a spire point since I will use only in my single-shot rifle.
My email can be found in my profile.
Thanks,
Jimmy
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Only a matter of time. Haven't decided on a post-retirement location yet, but it will come.
Mike there may be 120 acres with two small houses on it for sale here soon: https://www.google.com/maps/@35.5667308,-92.8377436,1170m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu (https://www.google.com/maps/@35.5667308,-92.8377436,1170m/data=!3m1!1e3?entry=ttu)
I say may be up for sale. I'm looking at 240 acres 6 miles pretty much due west on Wednesday. We never got around to building a new house or a decent barn...but if i we want this other place I'll have to sell what I have! It has a covered shooting bay with electricity with 100 and 200 yard targets. There is a wild steel fox that people discover and shoot at 230 yeards every now and then....
You know you hate the city....
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A muzzle brake permanently attached to a 15" Encore barrel usually qualifies it for buttstock use
(https://i.postimg.cc/FRpV1QgT/Encore-Stumpy.jpg)
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Found my mold! A Lyman 412263 off the Fleabay;)