Debating a Glock for Competition

[Big Frank]

17x2=34 so the 34 must be twice as good.   

[robert69]

I have a glock 35, and installed an Edge competition trigger. Installation was easy, and it works very well.  The 35 is supposed to have a 3.5# trigger, but it was not any where near that.
I got the trigger from Glocktriggers.com. Nicely polished, and very smooth with the trigger pull.
The trigger measures a very crisp 3# with a trigger gauge. It is adjustable with the reset.
Everyone that has a glock, and shoots my pistol, says they want one.  The trigger stroke is shorter, and the reset very short.
You just remove the old trigger group by removing a couple of pins, and just drop in the unit.  The final adjustment is done with an allen wrench, and the directions are complete, with no head scratching.

[TAB]

i bet they are not happy when they buy a stock one  :p

[alfsauve]

I own both and out of the box there's not that much difference.  Sure either one can be "fixed" up. In GSSF matches I generally shoot better scores with the 17.  Of course it has fiber optic sights while the 34 is stock.

Two thoughts:  The 17 is more in keeping with with the spirit of IDPA. If you ever want to shoot GSSF amateur division the 34 isn't allowed.

[Conagher 45]

Just got back from the range with my G-17 Gen. 1
50 rounds at 15 yards.

[Sponsor]

[alfsauve]

They shoot no doubt about it.   Pretty good target.

[Conagher 45]

Need tune up for a GSSF match this July here in Indiana. 

[GeorgeCook]

I have shot a G17, G19, and G34 in USPSA and IDPA. My assessment is shoot the one that is most comfortable to you. Either one will do fine for IDPA. The only additional consideration I would take into account is the sights. Some sight setups don't work too well in competition shooting environments, but this comes back to how much dry fire/live fire practice you do with that system.

Before you spend any money, take your carry gun out to the IDPA match and shoot it there for a few matches. Then you will be able to get a better gauge of what you need for competition.

Good luck!
George

[m25operator]

I have both and really like the 34 at competition, longer sight radius and extra velocity are a plus. The 34 does come with a lighter trigger pull, but in actuality it needs as much help as the other models,  I smooth my own internals, and having the 3.5lb connector  stock saves a few bucks.  I really like the Warren/Sevigny iron sights, and as odd as this might sound, you can put your 34 top end on your 19 lower, the only reason I mention it is you can put up optics on the 34 frame, for shooting open class , then put top end on the 19 frame for limited. I did that with my 17 and it worked out well. I hope this information was confusing enough good luck.

[Silver Bullet]

As a median average it's whatever pistol size you are most familiar with that's going to do well for you. 

I've often thought about this very topic while waiting for my turn on the line.  The conclusion I've reached is that Glock compact frames can be made to shoot well; and, yes, they do seem to be a little faster out of the holster; but so what? 

Glock standard frames shoot and handle well too.  I, myself, prefer to use a G-21 (power factor!); and I've no compelling reason to change.  Sometimes I use a G-19; and, yes, I've got to be a little more careful about pointing the muzzle, watching the front sight, and pulling the trigger than I do while I'm using the G-21.  It does take a little more care, and a little  more concentration to skillfully handle a compact frame. 

A few years ago one of the finest pistol shots I know switched to a long slide Model 35.  Why did he do it?  He did it because it's the longer shots that he's going to beat the rest of the group with.  Several other competitors have a similiar ability to hit at and inside 12-15 yards in the same way that he does.  It's only on the 15 yard + plus targets that he can really pull away from everybody else.  Hence, the G-35! 

Glock G-34's and G-35's use a (nominal) '3.5#' trigger connector which does yield a somewhat lower CUMULATIVE trigger pull.  What a, '3.5#' connector will NOT do is yield an actual 3.5 lbs. trigger.  Whenever you want to determine a Glock's actual trigger pull several other factors need to be taken into consideration besides only the connector's cantilevered top angle; e.g.:  trigger spring, recoil spring, and striker spring weights.  The connector angle, itself, is not going to give you a specific trigger pull weight.