<snip> The first rule with any machine is, "If it ain't broke, don't try to fix it." So that proved to me that a rifle doesn't have to be free floated to be accurate. As always YMMV.
You always have nice looking stocks.
Back on subject, one of my 308's was from the used rack with maybe 15-20 rounds...maybe 5 on it. When I shot it (patterned actually) it went from 12 o'clock high 8" and spiraled in clockwise and by shot # 6 or 7 had gotten 10 o'clock and about 2" from center...when it was good and hot it grouped at 12 o'clock an 1-1/2" to 3" high and a sloppy 2" left and right. I found out why it was sold then I remembered to check for barrel contact.
It's a Remington 700 in 308 with a beavertail stock. Once I trimmed the stock lengthwise I decided to leave the pressure point. The thing easily cloverleafs at 100 yards now. That was my first real initiation in barrel/stock contact. I also have a CZ 550 FS (full wood stock) in 270 that shoots 1/2" groups at 100 yards and a CZ 455 FS in 17 HMR that makes a big hole at 50 yards. So...I'm not 100% sold on free floating.
That Remington 700 is the most striking example of a bad gun gone good I've ever seen and my initiation into messing with the stock. I haven't made changes on anything that is a good shooter. I just also trimmed a plastic barrel on a Ruger Hawkeye All-weather in .223 but left the pressure point on front.
So, this week some time I'm planning on putting the CZ 550 22-250 and the Ruger Hawkeye .223 downrange for a test. I figured I take all the stock off the CZ 550 and see how it does and will add back pressure. The Hawkeye had some self-inflicted scope ring issues so if it shoots well the pressure point stays..if not the pressure point goes.